Seeing how May is
quickly coming to a close I thought I'd take the time to write down some of my
highs and lows during this month. It has been an amazing first18 days down here
in Southern California, and I can hardly believe that I've already come 369
miles! That's farther than it takes to get from Philadelphia to Boston or just
about the distance from Toledo to Madison WI (shout out to you Mikey C).
Anyways, below you can check out my highs and lows of the trip thus far.
High: San Felipe Hills (mile 77 to 101)
San Felipe Hills was a
high for me because this was the first hot dry section that I actually timed
right. I filled up after a long hot afternoon hiding in the shade of an
underpass (yes, like a troll) at Scissors Crossing then headed up into these
desert hills. San Felipe Hills had such an amazing variety of cacti like barrel
cactus that I have yet to see anywhere else on the trail. I walked right through
the sunset which can be amazing out in the desert especially when you are high
in the hills and can see the shadows being created by the rolls in the
mountains; everything is incredibly colorful and makes the Earth look like a loaf
of bread baking. I slept out under the stars. I started hiking at first light,
seeing one of the best sunrises on the trail yet, and managed to hike most of
this long waterless stretch without even worrying about water because I was just
enjoying the cool evening into morning air. When I reached the spring at the
bottom of the hills, I took a nice well deserved lunch break.
Billy Goats Gruff?
High: Fields around Eagle Rock (mile 105 to 109)
Walking through the
grassy fields around Eagle Rock was one of my favorite early sections of the
trail anda total surprise for me in Southern California. I had just come down
out of some of the harsh desert hills and started walking through these huge
sweeping fields on my way into Warner Springs. The low sun on the grasses just
light up the fields into a golden sea of color, and gentle breezes make them
billow like waves on the ocean. I was listening to my iPod shuffle as I walked
through here and up popped Kids on the Run by Tallest Man on Earth which was a great song
to listen to, and I just felt like I was escaping everything out here on the
trail which is something I don't really let myself do very often. Then you get
to Eagle Rock which is the splitting image of an Eagle just perched out in the
middle of the fields. The locals say it was entirely carved out by the wind,
and it must have been a sacred spot for the Natives who lived in the area
because even I felt pretty spiritual as I approached it.
|
High: San Jaciento Sunset (mile 179 to 185)
Worth every step... |
...but there were sure a lot! |
Don't mind the Spanish...
Low: The Descent from Fuller Ridge (mile 192 to 205)
Fuller Ridge coming down
from Mount San Jaciento was great with lots of pines and giant boulders that
would have been fun to climb on if I had the energy or time to spare. Then you
reached a point where you could see I-10 off in the distance which would be
staring at all day; The bottom of the mountain is only 4 miles away from Fuller
Ridge but it takes 15 miles of switchbacks to get there. I started down with a
good attitude, and it was neat to see how you transitioned into the different
ecosystems as you went down the mountain. Once I reached a certain elevation, all
of a sudden there would be no more of one plant and tons of another. However, I
felt the further down I went, the plants became pricklier because of the
harsher conditions. There was also less and less shade and no water to be found,
so I had to manage with what I carried down from the cool mountain streams from
that morning. When I finally reach one tiny sliver of shade under a boulder, it
took me about 20 seconds to realize this was right where some bees had decided
to build a nest and they were not happy bees and chased me for about 5 mins
after that getting stuck in my hair but luckily I didn't get stung. Alex, who
was just behind me unfortunately was not so lucky. Then there was the wind.
I
didn't even notice until the last few miles but there were hundreds of
windmills down in the valley by I-10. The wind here was so strong it almost
knock all 210 lbs of me over plus my packweight. It was truly impressive but
would also pick up some of the sand at times and was a very warm breeze, so not
all that cooling or comforting. Then, finally when we got to the bottom, there
was no shade so I waited for Alex, and we trudged across the flat desert to
make it to an amazing oasis.
So windy!
High: Ziggy and the Bear (mile 210)
Just imagine how great this felt. |
Getting to Ziggy's! |
Just after descending
from Fuller Ridge I hit one of the highs of my trip; Ziggy and the Bear are some
of the sweetest trail angels I have met so far who had posted signs outside of
town encouraging us on and letting us know when we were almost to their place.
We walked into their backyard, and the Bear introduced himself to us then had
us sit down so he could bring out some very hot water with epsom salt for us to
soak our feet in. We didn't even have to ask; he just knew we needed to fix our
feet and get some nice cold water. Then Ziggy, a sweet older woman, came out
and told us everything we needed to know and explained how they would be making
us salad, and we would get ice cream for dessert. You have no idea how awesome
those fresh veggies and ice cream tasted. She also gave us a great guide to all
of the Southern California wildlife, and I learned the names of some of the
lizards and plants I saw everywhere. We had wonderful shelter from the harsh
winds whipping through the desert and got to cowboy camp under a tent in their
yard. I also got a good sense of the PCT community seeing how I hiked in with
Alex, met up with Birdy (a really wonderful woman from Chicago who has the most
fitting trail name always stopping to look at the birds), and Karl came
stumbling in later. We even had aanother guy Mike show up in the middle of the
night finding his way with a tiny little flashlight, and I know he was happy
for this little hiker oasis. The next morning Ziggy got up at 4:30 (which she
does every morning) to make us breakfast with cereal and fresh fruit so we can
leave early as hikers do. Before I left, I gave them a donation, and Ziggy told
me how through the generosity of hikers, they were able to cover the cost of
all the tents, food, water coolers, etc. However, the encouragement and support
this sweet older couple shows to all these hikers is truly priceless.
Thank you so much for your kindness! |
Low: Loosing my Knife (Twice)
No too much to say here.
I lost my knife in the first section, bought a new one in Idyllwild, and then
lost that just outside of Big Bear Lake. It sucks, and I still need to buy a
third.
Low: Dashing through the Snow (mile 255 to 267)
This was one of my
poorest decisions on the trail yet. I was hiking with Karl and Alex just
outside of Big Bear Lake, and we all wanted to put in some good miles so that
we would not have to travel far the next morning to get into town. We had been
moving at a nice pace the whole day and were feeling fine around 5pm when we
got into the camp we could have stayed at to call it a 21-mile day. However, we
all decided to hike an extra 12 miles to the next campsite since we were
feeling fine, and there was nothing wrong with a little night hiking. Oh, and I
should also mention how we ran into a group of Scouts at that camp and one of
the leaders warned us it would get down to 20 degrees later that day. I thought
no way man and we blindly pushed on.
We started off fine
joking around having a good time. Then the winds and the cold started coming.
It was funny how we stopped just where our friend Birdy set up a stealth camp,
and she had decided to call us her boys since she was tired of all the older
men hitting on her. We kept going for a while and soon got ourselves lost
temporarily but quickly rejoined the trail no problem. We went up through
a steep valley then got out on this wide windy plain which is where we first
saw the dark ominous looking clouds. I was totally consumed by the moment and
wanted to chase the storm and didn't bother putting on extra layers or gloves
like the other guys. I raced off across the plains battling the chilly winds
and nearly running into these black clouds rushing to the west just ahead of
us. After a while, we finally got under the clouds and the sun had set, and I
was starting to lose my enthusiasm. I think at that point most of us would have
been fine with stopping but nobody wanted to be the one to quit on our goal. I
kept hinting to Karl who was in the front that he could stop at any time but he
took this as my sarcasm and just started to get extremely pissed at me and more
stubborn about reaching the camp still 6 miles away.
At one point my flashlight
died and I had to replace the batteries and my hands were so numb I felt like
an old man who had forgotten how to work his fingers. When I got my headlamp
working properly I realized we were now in the middle of a snow flurry. We kept
mindlessly pressing on through the dark and snow at breakneck speed and were lucky
nobody got injured. We ended up passing the camp because we blindly cruised by
the sign and had to backtrack about half a mile. When we got in, nobody wanted
to talk and I finally got some warmer clothes on and tried to battle out
setting up my tarp with my numb hands. I got it up but set it up poorly so I
had to crawl out of my warm sleeping bag and adjust it twice in the night. The
tarp was also right up against my sleeping bag and hammock which made the
outside damp, not good for a down sleeping bag, but luckily I stayed warm. We
woke up the next morning to a thin layer of snow, and luckily everyone was in a
much better mood.
The morning after... |
High: Deep Creek and the Hot Springs (mile 297 to 312)
Deep Creek was one of
the best spots on the trail so far. It was relatively large canyon where the
trail stays up near the rim, and I could take in some of the amazing views down
by the water. This combination of water and shade in the hot desert was very
much welcomed, and there were many opportunities to head down to the creek and
take a quick dip.
Ahhh, relaxation. |
High: Cajon Pass (mile 338 to 352)
This day started off
heading up into the chaparral. I had been bitten twice by ants and was tearing
my way through an overgrown trail full of sharp, prickly shrubs. I had looked
over the map and figured the day would be mostly like this until I reached
Cajon Pass when the PCT crosses I-15. Then, all of a sudden, I turned a corner
just after some power lines and one of the most impressive vistas was unveiled
before my eyes. I was up on the edge of a mountain-side with a panoramic view
into the hills leading up to the San Bernardino Mountains with Mount Baldy and Mount
Baden Powell. You could also see the San Andreas fault line cutting through
creating a valley. I-15 was a small little sliver that snaked its way off into
the high desert. I started making my way down and was so glad to find that it
was nothing like the descent to I-10 where it took 15 miles to travel 4 miles.
Instead, this trip took roughly 4 miles to travel 4 miles, and it was nice and
breezy but not too bad and I kept getting new view.
Then, it ended by heading down into a small canyon and before I knew it I was right in front of the highway. Best of all, there was a McDonalds at the bottom which was a great way to beat the midday sun grab some lunch, and raid the dollar menu. I also timed out the section heading out of Cajon Pass into Wrightwood well by hiking the worst of it in the evening and the early morning and carrying extra water for this 22 mile dry stretch which many other hikers were not warned of before. The hardest part of this part of the trek was not stopping to take pictures every 5 minutes.
Took my breath away for sure. |
Then, it ended by heading down into a small canyon and before I knew it I was right in front of the highway. Best of all, there was a McDonalds at the bottom which was a great way to beat the midday sun grab some lunch, and raid the dollar menu. I also timed out the section heading out of Cajon Pass into Wrightwood well by hiking the worst of it in the evening and the early morning and carrying extra water for this 22 mile dry stretch which many other hikers were not warned of before. The hardest part of this part of the trek was not stopping to take pictures every 5 minutes.